Teheran to Mashhad

Our flight to Tehran was very smooth, considering that we had simply missed the assigned flight two days earlier on simple oversight. Between the wedding, Nikoo's job hunting, planning this trip, shifting goals and just plain getting to know each other, even this haphazard omission might be excused.

We spent the night in Teheran, and flew the following day to Mashhad (2nd largest city) in the Northeast part of the country about 200 miles from the Afghanistan boarder. To say that I was warmly welcomed would be a vast understatement. Beyond the expected greeting from Nikoo's family, most eyes in the crowded airport were on me. Despite what some people had warned, there was not one sign of anything but glee for whatever circumstances brought me here. The few strangers we spoke to all said the same thing "be sure to show him the best of Iran, especially the people, so that he will feel that he is a guest of all of us". I don't speak the language, so it was difficult to communicate, but every time we had to cross an official line of demarcation (airport security, bus, etc.), Nikoo being accompanied by an American changed circumstances -- they gave us the best class that they could by waving fees, security checks, etc. Each official did their best to subtly show I was their honored guest.

It is hot, very hot; and short sleeve dress shirts are the only break from conservative male clothing; no short pants in sight. On the street, all clothing is in grayscale. All of the women wear long coats and a headscarf, and many extend this with the traditional Islamic "chador". But this is not like the "berka" you saw in Afghanistan and many women are rather fashionable. On the street, this dress code is enforced, but the style appears also to be a matter of choice by the people as a sign of respect to others (therefore to God) - similar to an office dress code. Mashhad is a very religious city and so its citizens tend to dress more conservative than in Teheran.

In two days we have a guided tour of Isfhan and Shiraz. The local's roll their eyes and say how hot Shiraz will be - can it be any hotter! Nikoo's parents have booked us at the 5-star Abbasi Hotel, one of the most luxurious hotels in the world. These are two of the most historic cities -- ancient architecture, Islamic mosques, Christian churches and Zoroastrian temples as well as carpets and other finery. We will also visit Persepolis, which was built in 500 BC and laid to ruin by Alexander the Great in 311 BC.