Mashhad - Imam Reza

Haram Shrine and Museum (Imam Reza): Where do I begin? Mashhad is the most holy place in Iran. The Haram is the resting place of Reza, the 8th Islamic Imam. I can't go in to it all here, but after the prophet Mohammad, they believe God sent 12 infallible Imams to guide religion, etc. Reza was murdered around 800AD and "Mashhad" means The Place of Martyrdom. Thousands of pilgrims come here each year, leaving contributions that make the Imam Reza estate among the richest in the world. The sprawling complex includes ? highly ornate shrines, and other places of prayer. It is a cemetery also, and my wife's grandparents are buried here.

My wife is a good spiritual as well as historical guide. Along with visiting the museum, carpet museum, and tourist places, we also prayed and spoke with clerics. She read the prayer in Arabic and then translated it to English. Those around us acknowledged the only American Moslem in the building with silent nods. However, absolute focus remained on the sanctity of the place and the prayer. Closest to the tomb, women were separated from men. But farther away, families attended with all members and this is where my wife and I did our prayer. I took the walk close to the tomb by myself (on the men's side). Shoulder to shoulder and hip to hip, a thousand in the small building, everyone want to touch the tomb itself. I did not get even near it, guessing an hours delay.

Not just the shrine, but the whole complex is highly ornate, mirrored or turquoise tiles cover the walls with real gold inlay. The dome of the many shrines and minarets have a skin of gold. The craftsmanship is flawless and rivals Versailles in Paris in its beauty. I loved the experience and, were I a resident, would attend at least once a month.

Interesting experience, my visit to this shrine was several days after Bush said that Iran's government needed to change. I asked my wife if I should fear being so close to thousands of the most faithful at this time. She said not to worry because all 5,000 would be praying for Bush to push the Iranian government even harder.

Wedding party for us: My wife's parents, family and friends have all gone to great lengths to make sure we are taken care of, and especially that I see all of Iran, am not bored, etc. On this night we made a special celebration for our marriage. My wife already has, and I have come to love those around me here. Paraphrased, here is what I said at the end of the evening:

• The Arasteh's have taken good care that we see the "best of Iran", the ancient monuments, museums, culture, etc.
• But the very best of Iran is the generosity and excellence I have seen expressed in each household and shop, and even among strangers.
• My wife is well loved in America by my family and friends, so they should not worry about her in that sense. She has opened my heart, and I promise that our life will be full of the love I have seen expressed here.
• Things are the impressions I will take back to our house in America.